Recommended Workshop Supplies

Below is a list of my most used supplies. You DO NOT need to purchase everything. However, having good supplies makes it much easier to succeed, With this in mind, I have listed the supplies I can’t live without, each is a link to amazon or other sites to make it easy to purchase what you want for the workshop and beyond. First, are the supplies you will need for the workshop and then I have listed extras that I love below. You are welcome to use whatever medium you prefer for the plein air sessions. You will need the surface to go with that medium. I will be using oil and have tailored the list to that.

These are the supplies you will absolutely need: Charcoal: Photo to work from General’s charcoal pencil kit covers the basics Pen Style Erasers I can’t live without these. They get into little spots, push back lines, and also help develop edges and value. Kneaded Erasers

Paint for Plein Air: It is fine to work in another medium, if you do, you’ll need to adjust for that. Feel free to call or text with questions! Easel (If you do not already have one, there is a good, better, best list below.) Paintbrushes I LOVE these brushes and am frequently sending links to them. They are a blend of bristle and synthetic and keep their shape so well and give crisp lines and details. This is the brush I use 95% of the time. However, you will also wants some rounds and filberts, as well as a few soft synthetics or mongoose. We’ll talk about this more. However, I would recommend going ahead and buying these if you are on the fence. These are the sizes I use most: Silver Brush Bristlon Flat size2 Silver Brush Bristlon Flat size4 Silver Brush Bristlon Flat size6 Silver Brush Bristlon Flat size8 Paint Brush Washer Palette Knives 2 or 3 panels (see below for more info. Bring any sizes you like. I recommend 9x12, it gives you a good space to work in, but isn’t overwhelming to fill.

These are the oil colors always on my palette: You do NOT need to buy all of these, You do need a warm and cool version of at least the primaries. There are a range of other colors that are convenient or more chromatic than you can mix with the primaries. Permanent Green Light Phthalo Green Viridian Green Cobalt Teal Cobalt Blue Ultramarine Blue Dioxazine Purple Ultramarine Violet Quinacridone Rose a chromatic rose, I have yet to mix a color I like as well and use it in many places, especially with florals and flesh tones. Alizarin Claret This is a permanent solution for Alizarin chrimson which is a fugitive color, meaning it looses it’s chroma over time. Perylene Red Cadmium Red Medium Cadmium Orange Cadmium Yellow Med Yellow Ochre Transparent Red Iron Oxide (I also use Burnt Sienna, but if you’re buying new, I like this one better.) Burnt Umber Titanium White Warm White (I really like this for plein air) Flake White (I really like this for flesh tones and more delicate mixes)

Charcoal supplies I love but are NOT necessary: (you might want to get some now, but you this is also a good place to refer back to after if you saw something you’d like to try yourself. Pencil Extenders These are so helpful for getting the most out of your pencils, creating more graceful marks and also making it easy to identify the hardness of the pencil quickly. Vine Charcoal Compressed Charcoal Eraser Pencil With Brush This is less vital, but so helpful for the same reasons as the pen erasers. It has a very subtle effect and make a huger difference in the final texture of the drawing. Blending stumps Drawing board is great to put in your easel or draw with on your lap. This CARL sharpener was developed by David Kassan, it will work best with charcoal pencils. I’ll bring mine to the workshop, I love this sharpener! The MegaDuo is a good portable option to have if you are going to work in charcoal. Bristol is the paper I prefer to use for finished drawings, it is heavier and can stand up to more blending and erasing. *I will bring the drawing paper I use for studies and this is all you need to have for the workshop; however you are welcome to bring something else that you prefer. I do not like to use a fixative, because it can cause the charcoal to ball up. If I need to, I use a light coat of Kamar Varnish. However, usually, I just protect the drawing with tracing paper until it can be framed.

Painting & Plein Air additional helps: Straight edge I recently started using this, especially for plein air. It makes it much easier to get nice clean lines on fences and structures Clamp on shade umbrella Painting with the sun shining on your palette is awful. This little guy makes it easy to make sure you get at least your easel shaded. I do like to paint with a patio umbrella whenever I can haul that much. Make sure it is white/neutral though! 2oz Plastic Squeeze for medium I love these little bottles for storing medium. It’s so nice to easily squeeze out what you need as you’re working. Winsor & Newton Liquin original medium My favorite medium for plein air; it dries quickly and I gives a nice finish. I LOVE these brushes and am frequently sending links to them. They are a blend of bristle and synthetic and keep their shape so well and give crisp lines and details. This is the brush I use 95% of the time. However, you will also wants some rounds and filberts, as well as a few soft synthetics or mongoose. We’ll talk about this more. However, I would recommend going ahead and buying these if you are on the fence. Silver Brush Bristlon Flat size2 Silver Brush Bristlon Flat size4 Silver Brush Bristlon Flat size6 Silver Brush Bristlon Flat size8 In the studio, I store used brushes in mineral oil and wash once every week or two with Dawn dish soap. DeSolvIt was recently recommended to me by another artist. It is pretty impressive how quickly and easily it cleans brushes, however I haven’t used it long term. Master’s Soap comes in handy so often. You can use it on brushes, but more importantly it has gotten paint out of so many pieces of clothing/carpet/ etc. It will also get your hands totally clean. (Which occasionally I care about, haha)

Easels: I use an EdgePro Paintbook and love it. However, it’s about $700; if you’re looking for a more affordable option I have heard good things about both of these: New Wave u.go Pochade Box Soho Urban Artist Pochade Box

For panels, I use a variety. My favorite is Baltic Birch but Canvas panels also work well. You can choose the sizes you want to try for the workshop and I recommend bringing a few size options. I often choose the size based on the scene I have found, we’ll discuss this! If you go with Baltic Birch, you will need to gesso the panels before the workshop. It is also very helpful to have something to protect your wet panels, whether it is a wet panel carrier or a frame system, there are a few different options out there.